Tuesday, September 9, 2008

Amusing Musée

Thanks to a crazy dream I had where I forgot to book my plane ticket to Prague from Paris, I woke up early and a bit nervous. I shook of the anxiety with a shot of espresso, and decided to use the time to my advantage. I was planning on going to the Louvre Musem today and if I head there now, I can beat the crowds. I took quiet metro ride to the world famous square and found it completely barren.

It was a slightly cloudy morning and the lighting was perfect for some really isolated photos of the beautiful palace. This square, about 3 blocks north of the river and in the geopgraphical center of Paris was the France’s governmental seat for hundreds of years (up until Versailles was built actually). It was kinda eerie being the only one here, save for a café owner washing off chairs in the distance. He was nice enough to serve me more coffee and a small breakfast at his place even though I could tell he was not really ready for customers. Afterward, I helped him set up his chairs facing the square to repay the favor. Not a word of English was spoken. Smiles, nods and index fingers can go a long way. Once I saw a small line finally forming, I headed over and waited an hour with some fellow tourists and chatted a while. In front of me was a family of 4 from Bend, OR who knew a lot about SLO and were just as joyously clueless about Parisian culture as I was. In back of me was a not-unattractive girl from Australia who was greatly interested in what was on my ipod:

"What'cha listening to?"
"Oh, CougarBait."
"Ya? Are they a new band from the States?"
"Yeah, they've been around for a while."
"Can I listen?"
(We split the earbuds, Rock out to Superhero from the beginning)
"Wow, they're good"
"Yeah, I've seen them in concert like 4 times."
"Wow! So you're like really into music?! Where have they played?"
"Some pretty big time venues, like.... Sweet Springs Music Fest...um....Creston Flats....you know? All the California HotSpots. I got a Ticketmaster GOLDMEMBER pass for my birthday, so I'm able to hit a ton of good stuff."
"That's awesome. Are they on iTunes?"
"They will be soon. Still going through licensing issues with the lawyers. But you know what......(fumble around in my bag, hand her the copy of CougarBait FRESH Hooks) I got this sampler when I caught them at the Warped Tour last month in Philly. It's yours."
........yadda yadda yadda...... more slammhogginess............

(for those unware, Cougarbait, www.freshhooks.net , is a semi-cover band that rocks the central coast HARD CORE. I'm pretty much a non-acting band manager/backup vocalizer/roadie/frontman but right now I'm trying to get their EuroTour '12 up and running)

Among the first people in, I decided to head, deep into the wings, directly to the Mona Lisa (so I could get that out of the way) and I was pleased to see there was only about 10 other people there before me. You cant get very close to it, but it was actually a little bit more impressive than I previously thought. Probably mainly due to the more-intimate-than-most viewing experience, and the fact that it was the first painting I’d seen that day. She is kinda small, though.

Next, I headed to the second most famous piece at the Louvre, the Venus de’Milo. Other than the young, probably still hungover, docent in the room, I was the only person viewing her for almost 5 minutes. She was truly impressive. Her ancient origins and hazy history add to the beauty as only speculation can describe her creation.

I gave the Louvre the full tour. All the galleries, all the floors, all the exhibits. Other than the VDM, my favorite pieces were the Mesopotamian artifacts (mainly due to their incomprehensible age) and the artistic renderings of the history of the Louvre itself. The latter exhibit displaying dozens of paintings dating to the late 1890’s and early 1900’s depicting the transformation of the building to an actual museum. Top-hatted Lords and elegant nobility overseeing the filling of the rooms with much of the same artifacts that I was face-to-face with minutes ago, gave me a real perspective on just how importance of this museums history. Although, I will say the Orsay was, overall, my more recommended collection.

After the Louvre, I decided to spend the rest of the day in Paris’ Jewish Quarter. Soo glad I did. The streets were adorned with Rose trees, delis, Jewish bookshops, synagogues, shtiebels, and kosher boulangeries (bakeries)and charcuteries (butchers), and tons of other Jewish establishments. The area was bustling with people of all ages enjoying the beautiful, though slightly cloudy, summer afternoon. While strolling around without a destination in mind, I quite literally ran into the Picasso Museum. P had told me it was a great collection of his work so I popped in. After the last 2 HUGE museums I had toured in the past days, It was kinda nice visiting a much quieter, quainter recently modernized building full of works from only 1 artist. Picasso is far more interesting than I had given him credit for. His abstract paintings are great, but nothing compared to his sculptures, reliefs, mosaics, sketches, advertisements and photography. I snapped a handful of photos before I was reprimanded in French by an extremely old woman. She might have been Picasso’s mom asking me for royalties. Apparently photography was not allowed although I couldn’t find any signs. There were some really hot girls walking around too. I ordered the Plat du’jour from the most authentic restaurant I could find and it was the best meal I’d had in Paris. For only 15euros, I had a huge kosher steak with tons of sides and a nice bottle of wine. The mustard and mayo in France is superb. I then headed back to my hotel to pack my life back up into my 2 bags. Leaving early tomorrow morning to meet P at the airport.

Rhone, here we come…

Saturday, August 2, 2008

Versailles Versailles Versailles

Day 3 was completely spent at The Château de Versailles. My Uncle Rich asked me to make sure I pop in there to see a true spectacle of wasted wealth and extreme riches unlike anything that could ever be recreated in present day (Excluding the Wine Rack P and I built).

Located about a 40 minute train ride southwest of Paris, Versailles was once the home of King Louis XIV during a VERY prosperous French Regime. An Absolutist by nature, Louie decided to make an old hunting lodge, well outside of Paris at the time, his new home. Of course he thought he might spruce the joint up a bit. He also made the court of the Royal advisors and ministers live close to him so they were less likely to revolt(A little history lesson: They did anyway). He even named himself the Prime Minister after the previous one died. Nice.

As you walk about 15 minutes from the train station to the Palace, you can see the immense grandeur that is the Chateau. Other than obvious Sky Scrapers, one would be hard pressed to find buildings that big even in modern day. The fact that it was constructed in the 15th century is beyond me.

Unfortunately most of the facade is under construction/renovation. Between the scaffolding, yellow tape and the monstrous dirt parking lot directly in front, the initial view was not glorious. The inside was almost unexplainable. Not a single INCH of the walls, floors, celings, doorways was left un-decorated. Lots of gold leaf, meticulous moldings, many Asians (although I'm not sure they were part of the decor). Although there were no lines anywhere, the tour was WAY too crowded. It was hard to get around and I was constantly in the way of someones photo. By the end of the tour, I was ready to leave. I will say the hall of mirrors was pretty cool though.

I could've never imagined the joy I would experience in the so called "gardens". On the train ride to the Palace, Rick Steve's readings told me that golf carts could be rented (for a small fortune) to tour the gardens and I thought that kinda laziness was ridiculous....that is until I saw the size of this dudes backyard. Perfectly manicured lawns as far as the eye could see. Pools and fountains everywhere, marble staircases to every terrace. Hell, even the WALK to the nearest place to rent a bicycle was about 20 minutes!

I bought a panini and a huge water and set off on my journey to find a place to eat lunch. Luckily I dressed appropriately 'cause it was really hot. I rode about a mile to what I thought was toward the back of the grounds. I found an old table and bench where I iPod'd and grubbed until I fell asleep under an awesome tree. There was nobody to be seen or heard. Solitude to the max. Marie Antionette's private quarters could be seen in the distance.

I woke up and continued my bike ride. Planning to ride along the complete perimeter, I headed to what I thought was a "corner". I was wrong. It was just the corner of one side of Marie's fake peasant villages where she would live to escape the craziness of the palace life and royalty in general. The vast span of this property inspired me to ride even further (this became an issue later as my bike was kind of a "piece"). I continued down tree lined paths lasting 1000's of yards before dumping me into a different path of the same character. The only thing differing was the variety of trees to the left and right that were intentionally planted and evenly spaced so many years ago. I must have rode 15-20 miles, most with no other humans in sight.

I finally grew tired of the loneliness and hopped back onto the main ro-ads where I could see some pretty hot tourists jogging along the trail. This would be a great place to exercise, if I believed in such things. In order to add a little level of excitement to my overly quiet day, i decided to ride most of the way back toward the Chateau on the 14-20" wide strip of marble that directly bordered the huge pools. I'm quite sure that I wasn't supposed to be doing this, but I couldn't resist. It was quite intense. One wrong move and I would for sure have ended up in the drink. Upon first thought, that wouldn't have been such a bad idea due to the heat, but I for sure would've ruined my iPhone and possibly even been thrown in the "gallows" for disgracing the Royal Grounds. Luckily, I emerged victorious.

Went home exhausted. Got to sleep early. Big day tomorrow. Louvre.

Response to Comment

Dantron.....

Thanks for your comment. It had already been DAYS since I last read that particular SWPL Article. (oh how the time flies) In fact, I can say that it was that very page that led me to my adventures.

You see, as a half White, half Mexican male, I have oft been confused of my nationality. Once I finally found SWPL, I realized that I had my very own guide book to ensure my whititude. (note- I put equal thought into becoming a Mexican....but this guy said that was probably the wrong move).

When I stumbledUpon the great #19, I then knew I must make it a reality. But to take it another step, I figured I must outdo the previous White People before me. (psst, clander, could that be a possible new SWPL topic?) I've decided to MOVE to Europe!!!

Yes Yes....I will speak about said move for months and gain interesting perspectives from those who've traveled before me (all of them of course trying to show superiority over me pointing out the fact that they've ALREADY been or even go so far to say they've been abroad a number of times). These stories are mostly one in the same and I must have my addition to the like.

Now that I am gone on my way to becoming a better WP, I have decided to electronically inscribe all of my pointless details so that other WP can follow along and I can feel superior to them. (Not to mention, travelblogging is an ever-so-white-person thing to do ;)

Truth is, my previous job had subsided, I wasn't ready to go back to school and the sound of REAL work just wasn't appealing. Of course I leave all of those tidbits out when self describing to unsuspecting slammhogs.

Thanks for reading, guys. You're graciously pointing out that I have become a great white person. Keep the comments coming.

-Ryan

NOTE: to Mom and other family members
....please disregard this post and all future posts that reflect such blatant non-sense and sarcasm. They are meant to derive chuckles from friends not frowns from those related to me. I apologize beforehand that this is the kind of humor my peers may seek. Try to love me all the same.

Friday, August 1, 2008

Day 2: Wandering

Day 2

Woke up early and caught the Metro to the Eiffel Tower. Having seen the Eiffel tower in more pictures and video than probably any other landmark in the world, I wasn't really expecting much. I was just planning on crossing it of my proverbial list. Upon first glance, I was anything BUT un-impressed. It's footprint is sizable, it's detail unfathomable. I cant imagine the level of genius that went in to engineering this feat well over a century ago.

Apparently I didn't wake up early enough. There were loads of people already at the park. Lines to the top were hundreds of people deep and I just didn't think it was worth it considering the wait and the already rising Paris heat. I strolled around the lawns for a while and thanks to a few clouds in the sky was able to get some pretty cool photos.



Made my way to the Musee d'Orsay. Along the way found some random Cathedrals and State Buildings whose construction would've otherwise blown my mind had I not been already desensitized by Parisian architecture. Luckily I did beat the crowd to the museum. I didn't wait in any lines and just walked right in. Again, this buildings size and detail astounded me. All the directory's signage was in French so I just strolled from one side of the floor to the other and made my way up through each level.

Although every piece was amazing, not only as artistic prowess but as historical relic, I was most impressed by three things; French Realism, Impressionism and Early Photography (1840's type stuff).

The Monet's were unreal. The Orsay does not go to great lengths to keep you separated from the art. No glass cases, nothing more than a thin wire slightly set back from the wall about knee height. I could stand less than 10 inches away from almost any piece I wanted, putting me in the same position as the artist was during the pieces creation. Even found the original Monet that my mom had a print of hanging in the downstairs bathroom of my childhood home. Awe-inspiring.

Next stop was the Cathedral de' Notre Dame. Having flashbacks of Mrs. Novinger's 8th grade English class, I could recall all of the details that she drilled into my head after countless hours of blabbing. It was great to see it in person. My plan was to take the elevator to the top to get a much needed view of Paris from some elevation. That plan was halted quickly as I encountered the longest line yet. We're talking 500 yards at least.

I continued to the Isle of St. Louis where Shabes told me I could find (in one of his many opinionated lessons) the best gelato in the world. He was not kidding. I probably ate more than 10 euros worth of ice gelato......SO good. Once I had finally given myself a stomach-ache, I left and headed down to the Latin Quarter.

This neighborhood was bustling with other obvious tourists. Most of the youth hostels are located here so I knew I would see more Americans. My point was proven as in only a few blocks in I had already spotted 2 Starbucks..... why anyone would drink Starbucks when the coffee is SO good at any hole in the wall cafe is beyond me. Slammhogs....

Went back to my hotel and showered a long hot day off. Had a nice glass of wine with my hotelier and then headed back toward the river. After some delicious Stella's and believe it or not even a Heineken (MUCH less skunky than the US brew) I made my way to the bridges where I could watch the sunset. To my surprise, I was not the only one with that idea. I was not prepared to see HUNDREDS of French locals sprawled out on the pedestrian bridge with full bags of food and drinks, picnic blankets and musical instruments. I bought some wine and a crepe and squeezed in mid-bridge and watched the crazy Eiffel Tower's light show. The English language was nowhere to be heard. Finally after a good buzz had kicked in, I decided it was time to interact. I was watching these African fellas in a drum circle for a while and after I had finished my bottles of wine I jumped in the mix and started clanking the bottles together in rhythm. They immediately welcomed me with huge smiles and we "jammed" together for a couple hours at least. So long, infact, that I had unknowingly stayed out long after the Metro's stopped running. I had to pay like 15euros for a cab ride back to my hotel. Worth every bit.



Tuesday, July 29, 2008

Day 1 of the New "Old" World


First I must say my flight was superb. Air Tahiti-Nui is a fab airline. Great movies, nice seats, hot attendents, and stiff drinks. Also, since P had just recently backed out of his original flight, his previously booked seat adjacent to mine was wide open leaving me tons of stretching room. I had a full on fort built by the time I was over Arizona. Didn't sleep much though, anxiety found a way to keep me up.

I landed in Paris at 9am and didn't get to my hotel 'til noon-thirty. I was lost for the first time in a LONG time. (I have always had a keen sense of direction, even in places I've NEVER been) so this was quite a new experience. There is a severe lack of Engrish here and although the locals have been very UN-rude, I truly believe they do not know any of my languages. Also the part of town I've decided to stay in isn't nearly as touristy, which is awesome but harder to navigate. The Metros run so many places and have so many compound stops, that it is hard to navigate yourself from one ligne to another without getting completely turned around. Major metro lines are mapped well, but individual stations can be like the damned Egyptian Catacombs.

Asking for help isn't nearly as easy as it would seem. Although I can be easily identified as a foreigner, the French are happy to return a Bonjour or a silent smile but upon any request for assistance, they stumble even in their own words to point out a helping direction. They actually are trying to be polite. Quite a pleasant surprise. Stopped and had my first French Cappuccino at a nice Cafe so I could buy some time to gaffle free internet to get real directions.

After I finally arrived at my nearly hidden hotel, I met the help who spoke great English, scoped out my room and was pleased to hear of their newly installed free Wi-Fi. I have now decided to stay here throughout the duration of this Paris 'venture. Next, I unloaded most of my stuff and hit the streets with a much smaller load of cargo. My body is NOT yet ready to carry such large loads around. Even just my messenger bag was starting to cripple my shoulders by the end of the day.

Decided to go straight to the Arc de Triomphe as it was a pretty easy transit from my closest metro stop. That thing is quite a bit larger than I expected. Rediculously ornate in detail. Didn't have my museum pass yet, so I opted out of climbing to the top. I think I got the idea though.

Afterward, I trapsed down Champs-Élysées and got a feel for some real retail space. Wow. That Avenue could put some California strips to shame. Quite an impressive mish-mash of wanderers. Hard to tell the americans from everyone else. One things for sure, most the Black people here are exacly that.....black. I'm talking Kevin Garnet style dark.

Made my way to the Siene. I was in a constant battle with myself as to whether I should pull out my landmark map so I could put names to the monumental structures I was constantly passing. Most of the time, I'd go the lazy route and just guess what it's purpose was. I did get some good looks at The Assembly National and the Institution Francois. Amazing constructs with such apparent purpose; building a proud nation. Continued my walks around the isles and weaved my way back and forth across the bridges.

Due to the awful Euro exchange and my budgetary constraints, I've opted out of dining as I'd like to. Lots of ham and cheese baguettes and other nicely priced cafe snacks. I haven't tried the MayoFrites yet, but I will soon.

Tomorrow I'm planning on hitting up the Notre Dame Cathedral and Ile Saint-Louis in the morning. Possibly taking a brunch time nap at the Ice Cream corner of the isle. Then I'm hitting up the Orsay Museum and playing the rest of the afternoon by ear. One things for sure, I have had a perma-grin on my face unlike anything I've ever experienced. I'm sure it's such a combination of feelings that's causing the excitement, but until I completely exhausted myself by walking so many miles, letting the Jet Lag catch up to me and feeling like I have the back muscles of my grandma, I have felt like Ellis Boyd 'Red' Redding on his way to Zihuatanejo; truly unable to keep a steady thought in my head.

This was a good idea.

I'm gonna chill for a sec, shower up and hit the nightlife in this quarter.

Wednesday, July 2, 2008

Trippin'


No, not in the Fergie sense of the word. More along the lines of finally stepping out of my comfort zone and into a larger world. I currently sit in the SDSU Library trying to collect memories from the last 3 amazing weeks and realizing that the calendar ahead will shape my life more than any other time period I've sinced lived. Stay tuned if you wish, I'll be updating this blog as often as necessary and soon even rewinding a bit into the last few weeks.